A new dawn beckons (E F N)
With its stunning scenery, impressive wildlife and lodges where luxury has a conscience, the land of a thousand hills is embracing a new era of ecotourism. Chloë Wilson heads off to Rwanda for an altogether greener holiday
So, what time would you like to have your shower in the morning, and should we wake you with tea or coffee?”
These might seem like trivial questions considering I’m staying at one of Rwanda’s top end lodges. But rather than simply operating as a luxury hotel catering for moneyed tourists, Virunga Lodge, located just outside the Volcanoes National Park (PNV), is also committed to eco principles. Solar-heated water for washing is provided on request to minimise wastage, eco-san dry toilets (which reduce waste to a powder) are used in place of flushing loos, solar power is the primary source of electricity, wake-up calls are done in person as there are no phones in the rooms and I’m politely reminded not to leave lights on unnecessarily. What’s more, guests can sleep soundly knowing $100 (€75) per client is donated to the Volcanoes Partnership, a non-profit organisation that undertakes local conservation activities.
When I first came to Rwanda a decade ago, tourism was still finding its feet after the genocide of 1994. Tourists came primarily to visit the mountain gorillas and had the choice of staying in the fairly basic Hotel Muhabura in Ruhengeri, the serene lakeside resort of Gisenyi about an hour’s drive away, or driving from Kigali for the day. But with its sublime views, beautifully decorated rooms and eco vision, Virunga Lodge offers an altogether more high-end experience. And it’s not alone. The region is now awash with top hotels bearing a conscience. Even the Muhabura has had a makeover and now features a boutique selling local handicrafts and souvenirs.
However, an eco-trip to Rwanda isn’t for the faint of wallet. Many of the ‘greener’ lodges cost in excess of $400 (€300) a night and a one-hour permit to view the gorillas costs $500 (€375). It’s a decision the Rwandan tourism board, ORTPN, defends. “Rwanda is a small country that isn’t geared for mass tourism,” says its marketing manager, Patrick Manzi. “So we’re targeting fewer but more affluent tourists and embracing eco activities, so we can better monitor and protect our natural heritage and initiate community projects.” But not all ecotourism experiences have to come with a premium price tag, according to Edwin Sabuhoro, founder and CEO of Rwanda Eco-Tours. His model of ecotourism is based on empowering those living around the national parks and then serving the needs of tourists. “It’s vital we understand the needs of the local communities and not just protect what’s in the park for the benefit of tourists,” he says.
Sabuhoro invested his life savings to establish Iby’Iwacu Cultural Village in the Musanze district of northern Rwanda. Complete with a replica of a traditional king’s palace and its own troop of intore dancers, Iby’Iwacu enables tourists to combine a gorilla visit with the chance to learn about local culture and history. Intrepid travellers can even stay in traditional bandas for around $50 (€38) a night.
“We needed to generate an alternative income base for poachers and those who rely on the park and its resources to sustain their families,” says Sabuhoro, explaining how former poachers now work as dancers and craftspeople. In 2008, Sabuhoro won the IUCN Young Conservationist Award in recognition of his work in developing such incentives.
While gorillas remain the star attraction for tourists, and the country’s Akagera National Park provides visitors with an archetypal safari experience, Sabuhoro reminds me that Rwanda has another gem in its ecotourism crown, as he waves me off on a trip to Nyungwe National Park in the south west. In contrast to much of the country’s red-soiled and heavily cultivated landscape, Nyungwe is as lush as it gets. At 1,000km² it’s the largest montane rainforest in Africa and a biodiversity hotspot, containing 240 species of tree, more than 140 species of orchid, nearly 300 bird species and 13 primate species, including chimpanzees and colobus monkeys.
Organisations such as the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS), USAID and ORTPN are working to make the forest a sustainable ecotourism destination that will improve the livelihoods of the local people in the process. “The idea is for Nyungwe to provide visitors with a rainforest experience” Ian Munanura, country director for WCS’s Rwanda programme, tells me. He’s currently overseeing the construction of a 100m-high treetop walkway which will offer unrivalled vistas of the forest canopy.
Due to open in September, the walkway will be complemented by a high-end tented campsite and the new Nyungwe Forest Lodge. The lodge boasts a beautiful location at the edge of the forest at Gisakuru, and the builders claim, where possible, to be employing green design best-practice principles. And as well as improved signage and trails throughout the park, there’s also a new interactive visitor centre and a college for conservation and environment management. Plus, a small passenger ferry has just arrived in the country, which will transport tourists between Cyangugu (near Nyungwe) and Gisenyi across Lake Kivu.
The major benefit of all this increased tourism activity is, of course, that local communities are also able to tap into the tourist market through schemes such as basket-making cooperatives and employment as park staff by ORTPN.
Responsible travel in Rwanda
Rwanda Eco-Tours (rwandaecotours.com), which is owned and run by Rwandans, offers eco safaris throughout the country that directly benefit the community around Rwanda’s national parks as an incentive for conservation – 20% of its profits are donated to local communities and to educate the industry about sustainable tourism. Scheduled itineraries include gorilla trekking, game drives in Akagera National Park, trips to Nyungwe National Park and Kigali city tours. Or arrange a tailor-made trip to suit your needs.
Green sleeps at Virunga Lodge
Boasting one of the most stunning locations anywhere in Africa, Virunga Lodge (tel. +250 502 452, volcanoessafaris. com) is owned by Volcanoes Safaris, which specialises in mountain gorilla safaris in Rwanda and Uganda.
On the morning of my departure from Nyungwe, I visit a troop of colobus monkeys ranging near the park border. After an hour of frolicking in the treetops overhead, the monkeys hightail it off into the depths of the forest and my guide gestures it’s time to leave. As he leads me back through the forest, he explains that not only is his job a means to sustain his family but he’s also immensely proud to be working as a custodian of his country’s natural heritage.
And rightly so. Rwanda remains undeniably one of the most beautiful and enchanting countries in Africa and it’s not wealthy investors or enthusiastic tourists who will keep it so. The success of Rwanda as an ecotourism destination remains absolutely in the hearts and hands of the local population.