Chic choc city
Whether it’s listening to the social commentary and humour of zouglou or the outrageous partying of coupé décalé, John James reveals how Abidjan is rising rapidly as West Africa’s music capital
Rue Princesse in Abidjan’s western district of Yopougon can be summed up in one word – loud. Along this thoroughfare endless maquis, as Ivorians call their outdoor restaurant-bars, compete for the ears and eyes of clients. Neon lights flash enticingly as coupé décalé, a mix of Congolese beats and Ivorian energy, shouts out “Abidjan le chic choc” (Abidjan is so cool) or “Abidjan est doux” (Abidjan is sweet).
Ivory Coast’s largest city is known throughout Africa as the capital par excellence for artists, and its bars and restaurants are among its principal tourist sites. “In Abidjan, we love to party, no matter what night of the week it is,” says local coupé décalé singer Divane. “You get a mix of music in nightclubs, but it’s principally about coupé décalé. It’s easy for anyone to dance to, so without a lot of effort it has quickly been exported around the world.”
Stéphane Doukouré, aka Douk Saga, was the leader of a group of Ivorians in Paris who pioneered coupé décalé. The music shot to success during the political crisis that followed the attempted coup d’etat in 2002; the subsequent night-time curfew inadvertently spawned a musical movement for those locked inside the clubs until sunrise. The physical centre of the music is Rue Princesse, where the super-clubs house the big-name DJs of the Ivorian scene.
Keeping it real
If the champagne and cigars of the coupé décalé movement seem a bit surreal, you’ll be pleased to know Abidjan has another musical movement that’s been breaking out beyond its borders – zouglou. The flag-bearers here are Magic System, who have received widespread success in the French-speaking world with their massive hit ‘Premier Gaou’.
Zouglou was created at the beginning of the 1990s by students who found themselves enjoying the new freedoms that a multi-party democracy offered but who were still suffering under a stagnating economy. “Zouglou is like reggae music in Jamaica and rap music in America,” says Bilé Didier, one of the founders of the movement. “To speak zouglou-tically is to explain life’s daily struggles in a musical style that came out of the Woyo music we grew up with. Zouglou is realistic and pragmatic. Coupé décalé has a different philosophy – it’s more about magnifying what we might aspire to. It’s living the life of the super-rich, even if it’s only for one day. They’re people with not much money but who spend enormous sums on clothing or jewellery – for them, they’ve tasted the high life.”
Didier is proud to have watched Magic System find success abroad and provoke international interest in zouglou, which has helped provoke a revival of live zouglou music in Abidjan. Didier recommends Pams Club in II Plateaux, Campus Premier in Marcory or Sunday nights at Recto Verso on Rue Princesse.
Rhythms of change
While zouglou and coupé décalé are breaking new ground internationally and their artists are becoming frequent visitors to Europe and North America, a third style of music has produced perhaps two of Ivory Coast’s biggest artists.
Between them, reggae stars Alpha Blondy and Tiken Jah Fakoly have sold millions of albums and, when not touring the world, organise huge concerts at Abidjan’s Palais de la Culture or Sports Park in Treichville. Otherwise, Parker Place (34 Rue Paul Langevin, zone 4) has live reggae music every weekend.
Abidjan’s reputation as a cultural centre predates these musical styles. As Bilé Didier says, the city’s venues, recording studios, stability and relatively large middle class have always drawn in artists. “For decades, Ivory Coast has been the place where you had to make a name for yourself before you could make it outside Africa,” he says. “I can cite Youssou N’Dour, Koffi Olomide, Salif Keita and Kassav, all of whom had to succeed here first. Ivory Coast has always set the new trend for African music, but unfortunately for a long time Ivory Coast didn’t have its own style.”
Now that has changed. The past two decades have seen Abidjan export more and more of its own style of music abroad, and it’s fast regaining a reputation as the hospitable place to party for all nationalities.
Listen up
Tune in to our ideal playlist of songs providing the perfect soundtrack to Abidjan
- Magic System ‘Premier Gaou’ (zouglou)
- Yode et Siro ‘Signe Zo’ (zouglou)
- Alpha Blondy ‘Sciences Sans Conscience’ (reggae)
- Tiken Jah Fakoly ‘Y’en a Marre’ (reggae)
- Douk Saga ‘Sagacité’ (coupé décalé)
- Molare ‘Maxi Boucan’ (coupé décalé)
Pages: 1 2 3
Leave a Reply
